Gold has been relevant in the past and it will continue to be an important topic of conversation and debate for many years to come. Beauty and Security are two sides of the same “Gold” coin and history has taught us that the need for both will remain till eternity.
Gold has been synonymous with wealth and power since the conception of civilization. The ancient Egyptians considered it to be the “flesh of the Gods” and decorated their tombs with accents of Gold. In the Indus Valley Cilvilization, Gold was used in jewellery and as a status symbol. The Greeks and Romans used the metal in coins as currency, in art, and for adornment.
Rhea Poddar Loyalka’s Echoes of the Earth jewellery collection reflects her love for nature and its creations
In Echoes of the Earth, Rhea Poddar Loyalka redefines gemstone jewellery as a poetic homage to nature’s raw beauty. Think hand-carved tourmalines, spring-set leaves, and rare gems like Australian boulder opals and Dominican larimar, all delicately framed in 18kt gold and natural diamonds. Drawing from the rhythms and textures of the earth, each piece doesn’t just shimmer—it tells a story of origin, movement, and meaning. Rhea Poddar Loyalka lets us in on the details:
Echoes of the Earth: A jewellery collection rooted in nature’s poetry
With an eye for rare beauty and an unmatched expertise in the intricate art of gemology, Rhea Poddar Loyalka and her brand ‘Ma Passion’ has emerged as one of the most visionary names in the world of fine jewelry. A true connoisseur, Rhea has mastered the delicate balance between tradition and innovation, breathing new life into the age-old craft with her remarkable designs and keen understanding of gemstones. Her dedication to elevating the jewelry experience goes beyond the surface, it’s a testament to the perfect fusion of artistry and science.
This year, Rhea’s exceptional talent has earned her a well-deserved spot in TheGlitz 2025 Catalysts list, a coveted recognition for the trailblazers shaping the future of luxury. Her journey reflects not only a mastery of her craft but an unrelenting drive to push boundaries and set new standards in the world of gemstones and design. Watch this space as Rhea continues to dazzle the world, one breathtaking piece at a time.
Over To Rhea Poddar Loyalka, Gemologist
What inspired your initial fascination with gemstones, and how did it lead you to the Gemological Institute of America?
Rhea: I grew up around gemstones of every kind. My parents have been collectors for many years, and they would fill our house with art pieces made of gemstones from all over the world. Their passion for the world of stones resulted in the establishment of Ma Passion, a brand that celebrates the Indian art of gemstone carving.
While pursuing Economics at NYU in the United States, I was geared to build a career in finance. But I also pursued a minor in English Literature, which exposed me to the vast corpus of works dedicated to the beauty and rich history of the arts from around the world. Like my parents, I was always intrinsically drawn to the aestheticism of India’s cultural heritage.
When I started helping out with the gemstone carvings business after graduating and moving back home, it was not long before I realized that gemstones had always been my calling. The more I listened to the numerous stories and countless anecdotes of the gemstones in Ma Passion’s collection, the more I was in awe of their existence. I woke up one morning having made up my mind to apply to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) for the Graduate Gemologist course.
Can you share with us a defining moment in your career when you realized the significance of blending traditional craftsmanship with modern gemstone expertise?
Rhea: I was fresh out of GIA in 2023 when I first visited the Pueblo Gem and Mineral Show in Tucson, where Ma Passion has been exhibiting every year since 2009. I had heard stories of the show from my parents, about the sheer scale of the event and the different kinds of international exhibitors and visitors that it draws. My first time there was mesmerizing, and it put a practical experience to the technical knowledge that I had received from GIA.
It added to my perspective on the industry, where I saw how every business can co-exist by playing to its own strengths. It made me feel proud of what Ma Passion had achieved, and my confidence in our brand increased ten-fold. Our main aim of keeping ancient Indian art of gemstone carving alive and thriving by introducing exotic stones from international mines to generational artisans in Rajasthan, India, allows us to create one-of-a-kind pieces of art that are impossible to exist again. Our Indian art, handed to us by our ancestors is our strength and our expertise in gemstones allows us to hone this strength.
What role do gemstones play in conveying cultural and personal narratives, in your view?
Rhea: For generations people have been using jewellery and adornments to express themselves and their personalities. The large variety of gemstones that exist gives one the change to truly pick what appeals to them. Each gem has a story of its own, and holds deep meaning which comes directly to us from the earth. People wear certain gemstones for particular reasons, from cultural significance to personal preference. For example, since jade is considered a stone of prosperity and beauty in Chinese culture, you would find more jade jewellery there. Or, Americans are known to love the colour turquoise and so will opt for that stone. Accessibility also matters – people from Sri Lanka may wear more sapphires since they are mined there.
Poet Leigh Hunt once said that colours are the smiles of nature, and gemstones are nature’s gift that showcase these smiles in all their glory.
How has your journey at Ma Passion shaped your vision for the future of gemstone design and crafting?
Rhea: I have been lucky enough to see the industry from the grass-root level. Since Ma Passion is involved in every stage of the value chain, from sourcing and working with miners, to handling the creation stage with generational artisans in India, I have been able to see and help with each facet of the process. It is very interesting to witness which parts of the industry changewith the trends, and which parts stay steady.
In many ways, this love for gemstones is an old love, which will stay constant. Gemstones are culturally significant in Indian society, and will continue to be important cultural assets. The one thing that will change and evolve is the sense of design and aesthetics. Gems are uniquely individualistic; each is nature’s creations that has taken thousands of years and specific environments to form. One can only hope that more and more people will be attracted to the beauty and appeal of coloured gems. The industry can only progress through more patronage and appreciation from enthusiasts, that push local artisans to hone their craft and create beautiful carvings that are suited to the buyer or collector.
What trends do you foresee emerging in the gemstone industry over the next few years?
Rhea: Given the specialised nature of the gemstone industry, I feel that the future sees more creative ways of wearing and using gemstones. Three different facets can be in the jewellery industry, in interior decoration, and in carvings and art pieces.
In jewellery we will see more unique combinations of different gem colours with mixed metals in novel design languages and techniques.
In interior design we will see gemstones being used in walls and furniture to create pops of colour and texture to living spaces. Adding gemstone accents to interior spaces adds a touch of exclusivity and luxury to one’s surroundings.
Lastly, in carvings and art pieces we will see more intricate carvings using rare stones. I feel there is a want to own something that is unique and one of a kind, and gemstones combined with specialised art forms are the perfect recipe for exclusivity.
How do you hope to inspire the next generation of gemologists and artisans through your work and expertise?
Rhea: Working with gemstones is more passion than work. I hope to use the world of gemstones as a canvas to create exquisite pieces of art that are testaments to the beauty of nature’s creations and the meticulousness of craftsmanship. I truly believe that if your work is your passion, then the path to creating a niche for yourself becomes less challenging.
I also hope to educate a larger Indian audience about the beauty and rarity of gemstones. Not enough people have the opportunity to understand the world of gems and I wish to provide a platform that is more accessible to a larger audience. The onus lies on present and future generations of gemologists and artisans to expand the global pool of gemstone enthusiasts who appreciate the exquisiteness of these gifts of nature.
Ancient art forms are weaved into the fabric of our global cultures, and keeping these generational techniques relevant is important while traversing the path through any creative medium. I wish that the future generations of gemologists and artisans grasp this importance and hold on to ancient wisdom while changing with the times.
From growing up surrounded by gemstones to becoming a leading gemologist, Rhea Poddar Loyalka shares her journey amidst the changing landscape for women in the jewellery industry
Born into a world of gemstones, Rhea Poddar Loyalka’s fascination with gemology began at an early age, nurtured by her family’s deep-rooted passion for rare stones and intricate carvings. Now a gemologist and jewellery expert, she has carved a unique space in the industry, blending ancient Indian craftsmanship with modern innovation. In this exclusive conversation, she shares her journey from the Gemological Institute of America to redefining jewellery design, the challenges of being a woman in a traditionally male-dominated field, and how gemstones can be a powerful symbol of empowerment.
Edited excerpts:
Your journey with gemstones started at a young age. What is your earliest memory of falling in love with gemology?
I was born into a house filled with gemstones. My parents have been collectors for many years, and they started a gemstone carving company soon after I was born. I have very vivid memories of going to their exhibitions directly from school and spending all day surrounded by gemstone carvings, which were so intricate and beautiful. This made me develop a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and effort that goes into creating a piece of art.
You pursued gemology education at the Gemological Institute of America. How did this global exposure shape your understanding of gemstones and craftsmanship?
The decision to study at the Gemological Institute of America was an easy one. Not only is it prestigious, but its international nature gave me a unique point of view regarding the gem industry. Studying there made me appreciate the scale and complexity of the industry that I wanted to be a part of. I learned to appreciate the effort and hard work that goes into presenting a piece of jewellery to a client, including, but not limited to a long and winding supply chain with many stakeholders. Getting to know more about the geological processes that created gemstones opened my eyes to the true beauty of nature. I returned from GIA with a renewed appreciation for our family brand, where we try to add value by infusing gemstones with ancient Indian craftsmanship.
Gemology is both an art and a science. What’s the most fascinating or surprising thing you’ve learned about gemstones that people often don’t realise?
That a small variation in the chemistry of a particular environment can change the entire colour of a gemstone – kind of like how a small change in DNA can be the difference that makes you, you and me, me. For example, the presence of chromium makes the mineral corundum red, creating rubies, and the presence of iron and titanium makes corundum blue, creating blue sapphires.
The jewellery industry is often seen as male-dominated. Have you faced any challenges as a woman entrepreneur in this space? How did you navigate them?
For me, the challenge is the intimidation that comes with not having too many people around you that look like you. It is difficult to be taken seriously while you are a young woman trying to navigate a complex industry. However, showing up makes all the difference. Once people know that you are focused and passionate, they welcome you with open arms. While intimidating in the beginning, the industry is extremely welcoming to anyone who shares its passion for gems and jewels.
As a female gemologist, how do you see women’s participation in this field?
While women’s participation is low, the newer generation of gemologists has a more equal ratio of men and women joining the industry, albeit in different parts of the chain. Consequently, the industry will also grow and change in interesting ways. It will be fascinating to see what the new generation of women brings to the industry.
Do you have a signature style or technique that defines your work? How do you balance tradition with modern innovation in gemstone craftsmanship?
I am very fascinated with unconventional combinations of colours that work together. India is a vibrant land of colour, and being a proud Indian, I like to bring that vibrancy to jewellery while adding a modern twist— by adding contemporary settings around the gemstones. Carvings made out of gemstones form a key element in my designs. I tend to use precious and semi-precious cut stones to enhance the colours and properties of the hand-carved gemstones, creating unique statement pieces of jewellery.
What’s one piece of advice you wish you had received when you first started your journey in the gemstone industry?
To not be intimidated, scared, and anxious to approach industry leaders because I have found that they are always happy to help.
How do you think gemstones can empower women, whether as an heirloom, a statement of success, or a source of confidence?
Gemstones have always been precious to women. We feel like our true selves when we look in the mirror with our best jewels on. I think that if we can wear it with confidence, we should create it with more confidence and sureness. Gemstones carry with them stories of their long journey of being created through time, and I think that they can remind women of the weight and consequence of their own stories, those that have been written and those that are yet to be written.
This Women’s Day, what message would you like to share with young women who dream of building a career in creative or niche industries like gemology?
Today’s world is one of specialisations, and I think that now more than ever, we have the chance to follow our dreams and pursue careers in niche and creative industries. Having been part of this industry for the past 4 years, I can say that it has been an extremely enriching experience. The journey will be uphill and downhill, but you can rest assured that the path will always be paved with a rainbow of colours.
